Bagan, built from the 10th to the 14th centuries, was once the capital of Burma. In 1996 I was awed by the vast site, ruined but eternal. An earthquake in 1975 destroyed thousands of pagodas, but 2217 remain. Buddha figures often have a treasure embedded in their head or spine, thus the destruction of these figures. I returned in 1998 to document this eerie world, but, I found all the Buddhas and most stupas, had been 'restored' and 'improved', often spoiling the beautiful, original frescoes in the process.